Duck & Waffle Local, eager younger sibling of the City’s 24-hr party nest, has arrived in St James’s Market

City AM, May 2017

WHAT?

Duck & Waffle, the City’s 24-hour party nest at the top of The Heron tower, has come down to earth with this fast-paced, casual sister restaurant. Looking like a cross between a trendy hostel and a Brooklyn warehouse, eat in under the latticed ceiling or wait until the takeaway option becomes available to eat al-desko.

WHERE?

Opposite mega-club Tiger Tiger in Piccadilly, it’s surrounded by chain steakhouses, budget Italians and American diners cashing in on the pre-theatre scene, which makes it the best restaurant on the Haymarket by some distance. And with plenty of law firms in the vicinity, there are an increasing number of office staff to feed.

WHO?

The same guys who are behind the original, under the supervision of chef director Dan Doherty, who’s been putting ducks on waffles since 2012.

ORDER THIS…

The menu is divided between sizeable bar snacks, mains that celebrate the “underused” bird (duck), vegetables that work best as shared sides and sweet waffle cones, overloaded with cream and chunks of cake. Some items are more novelty than nice – a duck-filled doughnut sitting in a sweet orange glaze being the main offender – but there are sparkling combinations, too. The duck flatbread, lifted by harissa, pickles and mint, is a fresh and zingy addition, and the menu’s offal dishes – super-crisp duck gizzards with fiery mustard, sticky BBQ-glazed duck necks – reinvent unwanted parts of the bird into decadent, lip-smacking snacks.

NEED TO BOOK?

It doesn’t take reservations, but there’s plenty of room for walk-ins. Visit duckandwafflelocal.com for more information and a nifty illustrated menu. Grilled tenderstem broccoli, with chilli, garlic and lemon creme fraiche

THE VERDICT…

With main dishes coming in at around £10, this is a great value introduction to the City staple.

ONE MORE THING…

The bar, a hefty triangular beast, serves up its own craft beer – Holy Duck IPA, brewed in South London – and it has pre-mixed cocktails “on-tap”. Signature tipples are spiked with intriguing savoury touches, such as the black olive negroni and the white basil spritz – they will also be available to take away soon.

City AM